So the plan is to remove everything from the frame, from the cab back. Build a new crossmember at the very rear of frame to fit fuel tank between frame rails.. Repair and strengthen the frame where someone shortened the frame and just butt welded it together.
Box the frame in key spots, replace the GM 10 bolt with a Ford 9″. The differential currently setting 1.5″ to far back. So I will center differential and shorten differential 1″ each side. It then gets all the four link brackets welded into place. Setup and adjustment to complete the install.
This Studebaker Champ was built in 1960. Sometime in it’s life it was blue then yellow then yellow again and then gold. It was never sanded down between colors but it did get lots of primer coats between colors. I chemically peeled the multiple coats of paint only to find 4 to 5 gallons of plastic filler in the doors and 3 fenders.
I have had worse in my career. I had a 57 Chevy hardtop years ago that the bottom half of the car was sculptured with Bondo up to two inches thick. The difference is the customers the 57 Chevy owner seemed to think it was my fault and I should fix it for free. The Studebaker owner understands old cars are just that. By the way the 1957 Chevy didn’t get fixed for free.
I fired this 383 Chevy for the first time since installing tunnel ram. This is a 4 bolt main block with a Scat 4340 Forged Crank, Scat 4340 6 inch rods with ARP 8740 bolts , Wiesco premium Forged -12cc Pistons, Hastings rings, King High Performance rod and main bearings, Howards Big Mama Rattler Cam, with matching valve springs, Comp cam 1.6 roller rockers, heads are 292 angle plug Crane Fireball. Very street-able 10.2 compression ratio.
This is a quick once over of the Fitech 30001 fuel injection and command center. It is installed on a 1956 Studebaker 259 V8 Transtar pickup. I replaced the edelbrock 1401 carburetor with the Fitech. See my other video of a ride along.
I installed Fitech fuel injection 30001 and a command center. The installation went with few glitches, the tuning was easy, and self learning seems to be working well. The quality of the unit is good, the hand held quits working when it gets hot in the sun. I like everything about this unit except the Fitech phone support. I got done talking with them realizing I would have gotten more educated answers from my cat. If you can get through the installation with out needing tech support you will be satisfied with this injection system. if you need tech support I would steer clear of Fitech.
This is a 2000 Mustang GT 4R70W transmission . It is going into a 1966 Mustang with a 4.6 3V. I rebuilt this with a stage 3 kit. It got high energy discs, a shift kit to repair the factory line pressures, repaired the EPC failure problem, all new seals and bushings. A 2200-2600 stall convertor to handle the loping idle from the Comp Cams. The electronics will be controlled by a US Shift Quick 4 controller. The controller came with a plug and play wiring harness. The shifter is a Lokar unit very good quality.